Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.